Ride a Train, Touch a Glacier

There are not a lot of roads in Alaska. There are a few major highways between cities but not too many that let you trek off into the wilderness. For that you need a plane or a train, and in some instances, a boat, or some dogs and a sled. We have opted for the Glacier Discovery Train—I mean who doesn’t love riding a train.

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We are going to see the Spencer Glacier.

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I’ve often said I think it would be cool to take a train ride across the country. This one doesn’t have sleeper cars but it does have a snack bar and a domed-roof car for better viewing.

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The nice thing about riding the train is that we both get to look around, and we get to view scenery that not many people get to see. It is actually very relaxing clacking along, swaying.

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I’m still hoping to see a moose, at least more than just one’s butt. When I look at landscape like this I feel like there should be a moose out there. Is this not gorgeous? I don’t know if the moose care but—location, location, location, right? There is plenty of food, a waterfall, and cover to hide in.

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We cross over the 20 Mile River that is fed by the 20 Mile Glacier. See it way out there?

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After about 30 minutes on the train we arrive at Spencer Glacier.

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The Chugach Adventures offers a rafting trip around the Spencer Glacier Lake and then down the Placer River. To get there we have to take a 2-mile bus ride.

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Yeah, it’s a school bus. But there aren’t any roads, how did the bus get here?. That’s correct, there aren’t any roads to here. All the vehicles at this encampment are brought by flatbed on the train in the spring and pulled out in the winter.

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Our driver, one of the guides, cranks up the music, Bohemian Rhapsody, and we bounce along a road that would give our Jeep a workout! I don’t know how this bus stays in one piece. I don’t know if I’ll stay in one piece!

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There are waterfalls all over the mountains from the snowmelt. Alaskan’s are not wasteful people and that goes for their outdoor adventure as well. They ski these mountains, but you have to take a helicopter ride to the top. No ski lifts here. The light green area indicates where an avalanche has occurred, ripping up all the trees.

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As we are pulling into the parking area, we get our first glimpse of the Spencer Glacier. It rises 3,500 feet from the water to its top.

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It is so big and so…blue! And look at the icebergs. The one kind of looks like an orca…if you use your imagination…and really stretch it.

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We get fitted with lifejackets and await our safety talk. Selfie time! Yes, we are outside but we have been asked to wear our masks. That’s okay, they are keeping our faces warm. It might have been warm back in Anchorage, but it is not warm here.

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There are moose around. This gnawed-on antler was found close by. I wonder what chewed on it? A bear?

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We are given the go ahead to meander down to the beach for our safety talk, raft assignment, and launch.

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We are assigned to the raft with Cory, lead guide for Chugach Adventures. 

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Our fellow passengers, Linda, Ron, and Chelsey (in the yellow life jacket).

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It is REALLY windy on the lake today which is pretty typical for summertime weather. Cory has his work cut out for him. It’s blowing at his back.

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The icebergs or “growlers” floating in the lake are from this year. By the end of summer they will be mostly melted. They are called growlers because of the noise they sometimes make.

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We will be avoiding some of the icebergs because they are unstable and could roll or rock unexpectedly.

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Remember what you see is only 10 percent of the total iceberg and when they rock and roll they create BIG waves of 32 degree water that will swamp the rafts. Brrr. Yeah, don’t want that to happen.

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There are few that are very stable and we get a chance to touch them. They feel cold, obviously, but the ice is smooth and bubbly.

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It reminds me of the how early spring snow feels after freezing and thawing a few times, but bigger. If you look closely you can see water dripping into the lake as the iceberg melts.

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In the raft ahead of us, there is a family of five and the kids are licking the iceberg. We decide to touch a different iceberg. COVID and all.

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I ask if we are going to get close to the actual glacier. Cory says it is at least two miles away from us at this spot. I mean, it looks like it’s right there! It is so hard to wrap yourself around the bigness and scale of things.

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Time to head for the river. Wow, that glacier is big. It looks like the promised rain may be making its way toward us.

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We take turns heading into the river.

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There are Class II and Class II+ rapids right off the bat, then things calm down, so says Cory. Look at all the pretty fireweed.

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As the icebergs get smaller or when small bergy bits break off, they sometimes make their way into the Placer River.

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It’s another million dollar bridge to nowhere in Alaska.

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It is a foot bridge that was going to be part of a hiking trail. The bridge is finished, but the plans to create or extend the hiking trail has been abandoned. Oh boy here we go, Class II rapids.

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The bridge is made out of Douglas fir and Alaskan Yellow Cedar, is 280 feet long, and 25 feet above the water line to accommodate ice flows and icebergs. It is the longest suspension bridge on the North American continent. Click here to read more about it.

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Well, we made it through the rapids with a minimal amount of splashing. Oh look, another bridge.

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Here comes the Class II+ rapids. We take on a bit more water, but the raft is self-bailing so we wont have to bail to stay dry and afloat.

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The banks of the river look almost groomed. Weird.

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Back in the day people used to look for gold in this area using placer mining and that is how the river got its name.

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We are seeing a lot  of beaver sign as we float lazily down the river. Trees that have been chewed are along the banks. Some of the sign looks to have happened fairly recently. There is a beaver dam down this little side stream but it is pretty hard to see from this picture.

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Floating peacefully along reminds me why I liked river kayaking in Pennsylvania. It is serene, relaxing, you are immersed in the tranquility and beauty of nature. You know, how things used to be before humans over ran the earth. Freedom.

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I mean can you believe this? Just imagine, the sweet, fresh smell of glacier water and flowers on the cool, light breeze. The sound of the water running and the gentle rocking. Warm sun beating down.

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All too soon the ride is over. We setup in the staging area and wait our turn at the pull-out. Not a bad place to stop and wait.

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Finally, it’s our turn. Cory parallel parks us like he’s been doing this for 15 years. Oh, wait, he has been. Cory was a great guide. He knew a lot of trivia and history of the area and kept us entertained.

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I would highly recommend this trip with Chugach Adventures. Now, where is that train?

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Oops, other direction. Here it comes.

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I wish I was better at pronouncing the Alaskan names.

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We arrive back at the truck and have plenty of time before supper. The salmon are running in some parts so we decide to stop by a viewing area. Unfortunately, we are too early. The salmon do not make it this far up the river until sometime in August. But we got in a nice walk.

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How do we get out of here? Oh, this way.

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I’m hungry. Off to Momma O’s for some salmon. It is under new management. Long story. Read it here.

 

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